Post by Steve Sutton on Mar 11, 2010 9:49:23 GMT -5
Most problems can be avoided if boaters spend a little time and effort in pre-season maintenance, trouble-shooting and trailer repairs. February is a good time to start because of poor boating weather, and a prime time to accomplish those tasks" said Leon Hudson.
Boat Trailer Maintenance
Trailers are the most ignored piece of boating equipment, but the one on which everything else rides, literally. When going on an outing the last thing you want to happen is to be stranded on the side of the road where you may have to leave your investment unprotected while you seek help. It is important to make sure your boat trailer is not the problem.
“People tend to take their boat trailer for granted,” said Leon Hudson president of the 50 year old Houston-based McClain Trailers, Inc. "But boat trailers are just like any other piece of equipment; you have to maintain them to get the best from them."
Most boat trailer problems can be traced to one crucial part.
“Bearings probably account for 99% of the problems people have with their boat trailer,” Leon says.
Bearings bear and disperse friction of revolving wheels. They are, by far, the hardest working part of a boat trailer.
If bearings are not kept properly lubricated, or if they are subjected to abuse, they can rust or deteriorate from friction caused by heat. When a trailer’s bearings stop doing their job, the wheel stops working. Thus causing one or more of the following, seizing, ruining the spindle, disintegrating and causing the wheel hub to collapse and ride on the spindle.
A common cause of bearing problems occurs when a boater drives a couple of hours to a destination, then immediately launches their boat. “The (wheel) hub is hot, and then it’s put into cold water” Leon said. "You get water pulled past the (bearing) seals, and then it condenses there." If the water is left there bearing will rust causing them to fail even if grease is present.
This water in the bearing lubricant is especially problematic for coastal anglers; saltwater is very corrosive.
What to do?
"During the off season, boaters should remove their boat trailer’s tires, and check their bearings, races and hubs," Leon said. "If there is any problem - a grinding when the hub is spun, or a hub that wobbles – replace the bearings and races, inspect the hub and spindle for damage, and repair or replace them as necessary."
How to replace bearings:
"Maintaining proper bearing lubrication also is crucial," Leon said. "For most boat trailer wheels, a Bearing Buddy® or similar item which uses a spring-tensioned seal to force lubricant into the hub works well."
"Boaters should avoid allowing their boat trailer to sit unmoved for weeks or months," Leon said. When a boat trailer sits idle, bearing lubricant can settle to the bottom of the hub, leaving upper portions of the bearings with little or no lubrication." I recommend moving the trailer often and this will keep bearing grease on all the bearings,” Leon said.
"Boat trailer springs take a beating from the load they support and the conditions they endure," said Leon . "Boaters, particularly those who launch in saltwater, should check their springs for rust." Leon recommends regularly coating trailer springs with a protection such as a penetrating oil or even grease.
"Investing in a spare wheel hub (fit with bearings and races) and a spare tire is good insurance against wheel bearing problems on the road. If a hub’s bearing craters, it is relatively simple to remove the damaged hub and bearings and replace them with the spare. Complete hub assemblies for the most common trailers can be purchased for $35-$90," Leon said.
"Many times a boater will have a spare tire but when a flat occurs they are unable to loosen the lug nuts because the studs have become rusted to a point the lug nuts cannot be removed. Spending time, a minimum of twice annually removing the lug nuts and treating the studs with an anti-corrosive additive will save time and expense when it becomes necessary to replace a tire, Leon said"
"Boat trailers typically come with six-ply tires. These tires often are designed to hold much higher air pressure than automobile tires. Under-inflating trailer tires will cause severe tire wear. Boaters should check the recommended air pressure for their tires and maintain that pressure," Leon said.
No boater should be without a tool box. It should include, at minimum, wrenches, a socket set, a variety of screwdrivers (Phillips and slot), electrical tape, duct tape, hose clamps, at least a couple of styles of pliers, and a means of jacking a trailer. McClain can offer several solutions for carrying and storing equipment.
Featured in the "Houston Chronicle"
Here's more information:
Boat Trailer Maintenance Is Critical In The Marine Environment
Here’s what to do:
Wash your trailer after each use, especially if it was in saltwater. Do this every time! Rinse every part of the trailer with fresh water, especially the suspension and behind the wheels. Flush out the brakes if your trailer equipped with a flush kit.
Saltwater is very corrosive.
The sure things in life are: death, taxes and trailer corrosion. Rinsing will greatly prolong your trailer’s life. Protect your tailer hardware with Corrosion X spray (available at some boating stores.) Spray the nuts, bolts, leaf-springs, winch gears and all other hardware items.
Use tie down straps.
These inexpensive ratchet-type straps help secure your boat to the trailer. Wal-Mart and Home Depot have great prices on tie-downs. Every boat should be secured with several. Tie down the transom and the bow (even if your winch strap is already connected.) Your winch strap is not a tie down strap. I was surprised that my boat towed better with the straps than without.
Keep an eye on the news.
You regularly see boats that have fallen off their trailers and onto the freeway. It’s amazing.
Grease bearings.
Do this every couple of weeks. Remove the hub cover. Locate the "Zirc" grease fitting--it's the "nipple" that fits into the femaie end of a grease gun. Squeeze grease from the gun until bearing are full (but not too full.) My dealer recommended using heavy duty DISC BRAKE grease on the trailer. Others have suggested using heavy duty marine grease. It’s important that the grease doesn’t degrade in water. Try out Kendall Super Blue grease. Feel your hubs for excess heat when traveling. They should not feel any hotter than a cup of coffee. Use Bearing Buddies or other such bearing-saving devices. Milky grease is a sign that it has been compromised by water. If this happens, repack all bearings. Repack wheel bearings every six months as part of scheduled maintence. They can be repacked annually if you use a bearing saving device such as Bearing Buddies.
Lubricate your lug nuts/posts so that you will be able to loosen them to change tires. This is especially important if you are fixing a flat by the side of the road. Lug nuts tend to rust easily. Use "Never Seize" grease, Boeshield T-9 or frequent applications of WD-40, penetrating oil or silicone spray. Replace steel lug nuts with stainless steel.
Check your tire pressure.
Trailer tires are different from car/truck tires. Check the tire sidewall for correct pressure (usually 50-65 psi.)
Check your tire tread.
Use the penny test by inserting a penny into the tread. The tread should touch the top of Abe Lincoln’s head.
Check the lights.
Have someone depress the brake pedal and use the turn signal while you stand behind the vehicle and ensure the correct lights illuminate.
Check fastners and all trailer hardware to make sure they're tight.
Use safety chains correctly. Chris-cross the chains below the tongue. Position the hooks to your tow vehicle in such a way that they won't easily "boune off." Even better, use a closed-end fastner.
Do not put too much weight on the trailer.
Gear can add a lot of weight - even if your boat can handle all of the gear, look at the weight rating on your trailer and do not exceed the maximum weight.
If you are storing your boat be sure to block and cover your trailer tires.
Remember rubber degrades when exposed to sunlight and also rots when exposed to the ground. You may wish to shade your tires. Moving your trailer periodically or jacking your trailer off the ground will help reduce dry rotting of your tires.
As you do with your car, carry emergency equipment for your trailer.
Make a trailer emergency kit that contains a spare wheel and tire, lug wrench, wheel chocks, bearing grease, extra hub assembly, extra line (for the winch and tie-down straps), replacement light bulbs, wheel bearings and road flares/markers.
Boat Trailer Maintenance
Trailers are the most ignored piece of boating equipment, but the one on which everything else rides, literally. When going on an outing the last thing you want to happen is to be stranded on the side of the road where you may have to leave your investment unprotected while you seek help. It is important to make sure your boat trailer is not the problem.
“People tend to take their boat trailer for granted,” said Leon Hudson president of the 50 year old Houston-based McClain Trailers, Inc. "But boat trailers are just like any other piece of equipment; you have to maintain them to get the best from them."
Most boat trailer problems can be traced to one crucial part.
“Bearings probably account for 99% of the problems people have with their boat trailer,” Leon says.
Bearings bear and disperse friction of revolving wheels. They are, by far, the hardest working part of a boat trailer.
If bearings are not kept properly lubricated, or if they are subjected to abuse, they can rust or deteriorate from friction caused by heat. When a trailer’s bearings stop doing their job, the wheel stops working. Thus causing one or more of the following, seizing, ruining the spindle, disintegrating and causing the wheel hub to collapse and ride on the spindle.
A common cause of bearing problems occurs when a boater drives a couple of hours to a destination, then immediately launches their boat. “The (wheel) hub is hot, and then it’s put into cold water” Leon said. "You get water pulled past the (bearing) seals, and then it condenses there." If the water is left there bearing will rust causing them to fail even if grease is present.
This water in the bearing lubricant is especially problematic for coastal anglers; saltwater is very corrosive.
What to do?
"During the off season, boaters should remove their boat trailer’s tires, and check their bearings, races and hubs," Leon said. "If there is any problem - a grinding when the hub is spun, or a hub that wobbles – replace the bearings and races, inspect the hub and spindle for damage, and repair or replace them as necessary."
How to replace bearings:
"Maintaining proper bearing lubrication also is crucial," Leon said. "For most boat trailer wheels, a Bearing Buddy® or similar item which uses a spring-tensioned seal to force lubricant into the hub works well."
"Boaters should avoid allowing their boat trailer to sit unmoved for weeks or months," Leon said. When a boat trailer sits idle, bearing lubricant can settle to the bottom of the hub, leaving upper portions of the bearings with little or no lubrication." I recommend moving the trailer often and this will keep bearing grease on all the bearings,” Leon said.
"Boat trailer springs take a beating from the load they support and the conditions they endure," said Leon . "Boaters, particularly those who launch in saltwater, should check their springs for rust." Leon recommends regularly coating trailer springs with a protection such as a penetrating oil or even grease.
"Investing in a spare wheel hub (fit with bearings and races) and a spare tire is good insurance against wheel bearing problems on the road. If a hub’s bearing craters, it is relatively simple to remove the damaged hub and bearings and replace them with the spare. Complete hub assemblies for the most common trailers can be purchased for $35-$90," Leon said.
"Many times a boater will have a spare tire but when a flat occurs they are unable to loosen the lug nuts because the studs have become rusted to a point the lug nuts cannot be removed. Spending time, a minimum of twice annually removing the lug nuts and treating the studs with an anti-corrosive additive will save time and expense when it becomes necessary to replace a tire, Leon said"
"Boat trailers typically come with six-ply tires. These tires often are designed to hold much higher air pressure than automobile tires. Under-inflating trailer tires will cause severe tire wear. Boaters should check the recommended air pressure for their tires and maintain that pressure," Leon said.
No boater should be without a tool box. It should include, at minimum, wrenches, a socket set, a variety of screwdrivers (Phillips and slot), electrical tape, duct tape, hose clamps, at least a couple of styles of pliers, and a means of jacking a trailer. McClain can offer several solutions for carrying and storing equipment.
Featured in the "Houston Chronicle"
Here's more information:
Boat Trailer Maintenance Is Critical In The Marine Environment
Here’s what to do:
Wash your trailer after each use, especially if it was in saltwater. Do this every time! Rinse every part of the trailer with fresh water, especially the suspension and behind the wheels. Flush out the brakes if your trailer equipped with a flush kit.
Saltwater is very corrosive.
The sure things in life are: death, taxes and trailer corrosion. Rinsing will greatly prolong your trailer’s life. Protect your tailer hardware with Corrosion X spray (available at some boating stores.) Spray the nuts, bolts, leaf-springs, winch gears and all other hardware items.
Use tie down straps.
These inexpensive ratchet-type straps help secure your boat to the trailer. Wal-Mart and Home Depot have great prices on tie-downs. Every boat should be secured with several. Tie down the transom and the bow (even if your winch strap is already connected.) Your winch strap is not a tie down strap. I was surprised that my boat towed better with the straps than without.
Keep an eye on the news.
You regularly see boats that have fallen off their trailers and onto the freeway. It’s amazing.
Grease bearings.
Do this every couple of weeks. Remove the hub cover. Locate the "Zirc" grease fitting--it's the "nipple" that fits into the femaie end of a grease gun. Squeeze grease from the gun until bearing are full (but not too full.) My dealer recommended using heavy duty DISC BRAKE grease on the trailer. Others have suggested using heavy duty marine grease. It’s important that the grease doesn’t degrade in water. Try out Kendall Super Blue grease. Feel your hubs for excess heat when traveling. They should not feel any hotter than a cup of coffee. Use Bearing Buddies or other such bearing-saving devices. Milky grease is a sign that it has been compromised by water. If this happens, repack all bearings. Repack wheel bearings every six months as part of scheduled maintence. They can be repacked annually if you use a bearing saving device such as Bearing Buddies.
Lubricate your lug nuts/posts so that you will be able to loosen them to change tires. This is especially important if you are fixing a flat by the side of the road. Lug nuts tend to rust easily. Use "Never Seize" grease, Boeshield T-9 or frequent applications of WD-40, penetrating oil or silicone spray. Replace steel lug nuts with stainless steel.
Check your tire pressure.
Trailer tires are different from car/truck tires. Check the tire sidewall for correct pressure (usually 50-65 psi.)
Check your tire tread.
Use the penny test by inserting a penny into the tread. The tread should touch the top of Abe Lincoln’s head.
Check the lights.
Have someone depress the brake pedal and use the turn signal while you stand behind the vehicle and ensure the correct lights illuminate.
Check fastners and all trailer hardware to make sure they're tight.
Use safety chains correctly. Chris-cross the chains below the tongue. Position the hooks to your tow vehicle in such a way that they won't easily "boune off." Even better, use a closed-end fastner.
Do not put too much weight on the trailer.
Gear can add a lot of weight - even if your boat can handle all of the gear, look at the weight rating on your trailer and do not exceed the maximum weight.
If you are storing your boat be sure to block and cover your trailer tires.
Remember rubber degrades when exposed to sunlight and also rots when exposed to the ground. You may wish to shade your tires. Moving your trailer periodically or jacking your trailer off the ground will help reduce dry rotting of your tires.
As you do with your car, carry emergency equipment for your trailer.
Make a trailer emergency kit that contains a spare wheel and tire, lug wrench, wheel chocks, bearing grease, extra hub assembly, extra line (for the winch and tie-down straps), replacement light bulbs, wheel bearings and road flares/markers.
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